Macey Shofroth, Journalist

Peru has the largest variety of potatoes in the world.

“We have around 4,000 types of potatoes,” explained Mariela Maya, proudly. Mariela is the chef and owner of Panka Peruvian Restaurant on Ingersoll in Des Moines.

Know its food; know its history

For more than 7,000 years, farmers in the Andes highlands have worked Peru’s diverse climates and soil conditions to cultivate tubers, each with its own flavor profile, color, texture, and best culinary use. After Spanish invaders carried potatoes from Peru to Europe in the 16th century, potatoes became one of the most influential crops in human history. The crop’s resilience and nutritional value saved millions of lives around the globe. Today, potatoes are considered a national treasure and a vital part of Peru’s identity.

Other ingredients in the local cuisine reflect the country’s landscape. Rich seafood from the Pacific Ocean combines with staples from the Andes Mountains, such as quinoa, maize, and tubers.

Many Peruvian dishes today use soy sauce and are cooked in a wok. That’s because Peru received an influx of immigrants from Asia in the 1800s.

Ingredients become a gift

“When I came to the United States 25 years ago, every time that my mom came to visit me, I was like, ‘Please, can you bring this ingredient from Peru?’” Mariela said. “Because I wanted to make my food in my house.  When you eat something that you used to eat when you were little makes you feel like you’re home.”

Mariela specifically treasures when her mom would make her ají de gallina, a classic Peruvian chicken stew. Mariela’s mom made it every year for her birthday, and it’s become a staple of Panka’s menu.

But food was so much more than special occasions for Mariela’s family. Every family gathering was focused around food. All three of her sisters have also owned restaurants, two in Colombia and one in Rockford, Illinois.

“It’s not only about preparing the food and trying that culinary space. It's about cooking with love, with the good ingredients. It's like remembering your grandma, your mom, and sharing that culture,” Mariela said.

Welcome to the table

Mariela will close Panka in the spring, but before then, her restaurant is partnering with CultureALL for a Dine & Dance event on Monday, February 16 at 6 pm. Mariela's team will serve chicha morada, an Andean drink made with purple corn, and causa, a dish made with potatoes, yellow pepper, and chicken salad. Next, guests get to try Mariela's favorite birthday dish followed by suspiro de limeña for dessert. Vegetarian options are also available and delicious!

Mariela hopes guests will leave full of compassion for the people they dine with.

“Let’s share all together different cultures and support and love each other, especially on this moment that we are having,” she said.

A Night in Peru

CultureALL’s Dine & Dance at Panka is Monday, February 16, beginning at 6 pm.

‍Purchase your tickets here.

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